Friday 29 June 2012

Oban to Jura

Tuesday 26th to Friday 29th June
Oban-Loch Melfort-Corryvreckan-Loch Tarbert, Jura-Drum an Dunan
(route and photos http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/107652 )

No giant hailstones here, but thunder rumbled over the Paps of Jura. It's been pretty wet and, last night, anchored in a very secluded spot on Jura, the rain pounded down and thunder did rumble in the dark, heavy, electric air. I was in the fairytale anchorage of Cumhann Beag. (As the pilot says, "There is no Admiralty chart coverage", and iPhone app wasn't up to it, so I really did need pilot book sketches!). Such places are made in dreamland. I love them.

The night before was spent in another amazing anchorage. It has the fabulous name, "Bagh Gleann nam Muc". It's tucked away next to the Gulf of Corryvreckan -  which keeps most casual visitors away. I only went there because the joys of soggy rain-soaked spot in Loch Melfort wore thin, and seeing it was quite calm and near neap tides, what better chance to visit infamous Corry? In fact, the notorious Corryvreckan was a twitchy experience, less because of the renowned eddies, rips and whirlpool, but because of mist. However, once committed, you have to "go with the flow". There was a busy survey boat roaring back and forth. It ended up sharing my anchorage next to the Gulf. It is in the picture with mist in the background.

Tonight I'll have a third night anchored off Jura - at Drum an Dunan. I have not been ashore for four days but the one and only Jura distillery is a mile or two south, and that will tempt me to row ashore tomorrow if the wind slackens. (Incidentally, you probably know this, but Jura is grand, green and amazing! It is wild and empty with vivid green mountains and outcrops of harsh rock. It's about 25 miles long but hardly anyone lives here. George Orwell stayed a while when he wanted real peace and seclusion.)

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