Oban to Jura

Tuesday 26th to Friday 29th June
Oban-Loch Melfort-Corryvreckan-Loch Tarbert, Jura-Drum an Dunan
(route and photos http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/107652 )

No giant hailstones here, but thunder rumbled over the Paps of Jura. It's been pretty wet and, last night, anchored in a very secluded spot on Jura, the rain pounded down and thunder did rumble in the dark, heavy, electric air. I was in the fairytale anchorage of Cumhann Beag. (As the pilot says, "There is no Admiralty chart coverage", and iPhone app wasn't up to it, so I really did need pilot book sketches!). Such places are made in dreamland. I love them.

The night before was spent in another amazing anchorage. It has the fabulous name, "Bagh Gleann nam Muc". It's tucked away next to the Gulf of Corryvreckan -  which keeps most casual visitors away. I only went there because the joys of soggy rain-soaked spot in Loch Melfort wore thin, and seeing it was quite calm and near neap tides, what better chance to visit infamous Corry? In fact, the notorious Corryvreckan was a twitchy experience, less because of the renowned eddies, rips and whirlpool, but because of mist. However, once committed, you have to "go with the flow". There was a busy survey boat roaring back and forth. It ended up sharing my anchorage next to the Gulf. It is in the picture with mist in the background.

Tonight I'll have a third night anchored off Jura - at Drum an Dunan. I have not been ashore for four days but the one and only Jura distillery is a mile or two south, and that will tempt me to row ashore tomorrow if the wind slackens. (Incidentally, you probably know this, but Jura is grand, green and amazing! It is wild and empty with vivid green mountains and outcrops of harsh rock. It's about 25 miles long but hardly anyone lives here. George Orwell stayed a while when he wanted real peace and seclusion.)

Lochs and Islands 3

Friday 22nd to Tuesday 26th June
Tobermory-Coll-Iona-Puilladobhrain-Oban
Route & photos http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/107272

Saturday was one of those days of sailing super-contrasts. It started on a mooring in Coll, a little island I guess I'd never heard of before this trip. Too windy and horrid to row ashore, we set off for Iona about 20 miles away. The photo does not capture the waves, noise, wind, cold, poor visibility and feelings of nausea! But, F6/7 and well-furled genoa gave us over 6 knots. We saw nothing of the islands we passed and could have been sailing anywhere.

Then, we picked up a buoy for lunch in Bull Hole, opposite Iona; the wind calmed, skies cleared, everyone felt better and we went ashore on Iona (2nd photo). There, the corncrakes (apparently a rare bird, not a rare breakfast cereal) entertained us with their distinctive calls and invisibility! As evening drew in, we motored across, under a blue sky and calm sea to Tinker's Hole on Mull. And all of that was just a single day!

Lochs and Islands 2

Mallaig-Loch Harport-S.Uist-Barra-Berneray-Canna-Tobermory
Saturday 16th to Thursday 21st June
(route and photos at http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/106950 )

Taliskers Distillery on Skye used to give its workers four drams a day then, when Diageo took over, two cases a year of yummy malt whiskey. "There were no accidents in those days, but now, with Health & Safety, the whiskey's stopped, and .....". We didn't visit the distillery but gleaned this first hand from a bright healthy smiling retired worker, on our walk round the shores of Loch Harport.

No time for distilleries! We've been too busy sailing and walking some lesser-visited parts of the Outer Hebrides (highlight probably the uninhabited southern tip, Berneray, where bird life, high brightly painted lighthouse, seals - for Richard to make friends with, sunshine and orchids made for magic); then Small Isle Canna, and now Tobermory (showers and washing machine - and rain!).

Superworkers, super-competent crew - Anna, Richard and Allan - mean I can relax, manicure my toenails and wash my underwear.

Here are some pictures (I hope): puffin, orchid, crew and Misty.

Lochs and Islands 1

10th to 14th June
Gairloch-Rona-Plockton-Loch Hourn-Eigg-Mallaig
(see route at http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/106413 )

There's a lot of truly magnificent and memorable coastline in this empty corner of Britain. It is getting busier though! Even the exquisite and rock-strewn anchorage at Acarseid Mhor on the Isle of Rona (pop. 2) had two other boats at anchor.
From there I sailed peacefully out next morning, and was jolted to attention by VHF call asking me to alter course away from submarine exercise. (Apparently this patch of sea - very deep - is where nuclear submarines get checked before going on patrol). I didn't see the sub but saw several range control vessels that keep an eye on things; and can see that exercising a nuclear submarine is not like exercising your pet spaniel.

At Plockton's peaceful and rhododendron lined station, I met Anna and Jonathan, fresh from Inverness. We sailed next morning under the bridge to Skye, via a pretty pool opposite a gaunt castle (Eillean Donan), and on to Loch Hourn. There we vied to take the best rainbow photo.

Then, time for another island, we chose Eigg. It's one of those places, most have heard of but few visit I guess. For a little island it makes a prominent sight, over 1,000ft at the top, south of Skye. Pol nam Partan, where we're pictured provides another rock-strewn empty anchorage.
Then we sailed north again and now we're in Mallaig. I've found wi-fi!

Hebrides to Gairloch

Thursday-Saturday, 7th-9th June
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/106014

Here's a picture fit for your Hebrides Calendar 2013! Leaving early from Scalpa it was picture-postcard-calm. And at last a dolphin appeared as the camera shutter clicked; it was one of lots that accompanied my sail back to the mainland. I'm convinced they like my singing because, if I'm quiet, they lose interest and swim away. (No-one else has ever rated my singing.)

I visited a couple of spots in Loch Ewe, while it was quite windy (though nothing like the Isle of Wight) and I didn't want to venture out. At Inverewe, there are well-known gardens (National Trust for Scotland). I rowed ashore and landed there and lurked off, feeling like Peter Rabbit in Mr McGregor's garden; though the gardens were't yet open for the day, and no-one was there.

Now I'm tucked up in Gairloch (26 miles sailed for a car journey that would have been less than 5 miles. It's often the other way round.)

It feels quite crowded and there are four other visiting sailing boats here, including Swede and Frenchman.We're tied up among fishing boats and tripper boats with glass bottoms; and I know it's not the Solent but after Orkney it feels busy.

Kinlochbervie to Hebrides

Sunday 3rd to Wednesday 6th June (Route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/105767
)
The weather gods were harsh in granting such a wet day for the many thousands on the Thames for HM's Jubilee flotilla, while giving a sunny F5 for the few lucky sailors in the Hebrides. I enjoyed a brisk run across to Stornoway, Lewis.

There I met a Scotsman, an Irishman and a Frenchman; they were discussing the state of this year's pack ice off Greenland. Goodness! I'm out of my league round here, thinking the Hebrides were a long way north!

Yesterday (Tuesday) was a gentle sail down here to Scalpay, Harris, made memorable by a close encounter with a minke whale, supremely effortlessly powerful as it eased itself through the water 15 metres away (it also gave me a fright!). (Angus, a warm Hebridean sailor I've met, tells me it's not unusual, but for me it was special); and also the goose-winged sail under Scalpay bridge, which seemed awefully close to the top of Misty's mast.

In need of exercise, today I've enjoyed a long walk. Here I am resting in front of Eilean Glas lighthouse, with Shiant Islands behind.

Orkney to Kinlochbervie

Sunday 27th May to Friday 1st June
Routes (when the page opens, click the left of three icons that appear)http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/105357
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/105360

After several days, I only covered some of the southern part of the Orkney Islands.
I'll have to come back to see the northern part. It feels fabulously remote, yet alive, friendly and unspoilt. It's been a joy to enjoy long walks and meet the few resilient folk who inhabit the smaller islands.

because

(With no Pilot book and only one chart for this part of the world, because I wasn't sure I'd come here, the i-phone app from Navionics comes into its own!)
Here's a smug-looking seal on a gatepost, and - not a boring bit of wood - this is Britain's mot northerly stand of natural woodland (It's on Hoy).

One stop in Stromness for water and a shower, but otherwise very peaceful anchorages. It's so quiet that I haven't even seen another sailing boat outside Stromness. (favourite spot? Bay of Creekland, sounds as if it's in a fairytale, 'twixt Hoy and Graemsay - just seals for company and they think the Avon inflatable is a long lost cousin).

The easterlies, that made so many places unapproachable on England's east coast, gave the opportunity to sail close to the Old Man of Hoy, and then anchor at Rackwick. (It was uninhabited till recently and is rather a rolly-poly place to anchor.)

In fact, the anchorage at Rackwick was so rolly that falling out of bed woke me abruptly at 2am! Decided to get up and sail off in pre-dawn light to Cape Wrath and Kinlochbervie (another beautiful day of mainly broad reaching - albeit aware that the wind had only just left the Arctic). 70 miles in 13 hours - a lot of it before people usually get out of bed!

Here in Kinlochbervie, I've met intrepid Ludo, who is sailing round Britain, clockwise, in a Wayfarer dinghy. Here's a photo of him (he's the good-looking one on the left!) and current crew in the local hotel and meeting place.
His is an amazing venture and makes normal cruising sailors like me feel rather 'soft'! He's also raising money for charity, so do have a look at his website
www.loveludo.com

This is my first Scottish Loch - it's peaceful and the walks are rugged and breath-taking.
Furthermore, the harbourmaster has more charts (posted as requested, but still a relief to have them!)