Whitehills-Wick-Orkney

Friday/Saturday 25/26th May
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/105359)

Across the Moray Firth

Friday was a magical day. Few people can be lucky enough to sail across the Moray Firth from Whitehills to Wick in such perfect conditions: broad reaching in F4 over a deserted sea (just a glimpse of Beatrice Field oil rigs softened in the mist), sparkling waves in bright sunshine and a warm welcome in Wick from fellow Scottish sailors - 50 miles in just over 8 hours, 'Misty' at her best.

Yesterday morning, Saturday, passed quickly. It included Wick's Heritage Museum (highly recommended; and I've seen a lot of local museums!), before heading north again.

South of Duncansby Head

If you read too much about sailing in the Pentland Firth, it's quite scary! Almanac and charts paint the picture, "...potentially dangerous...tidal flows reach 12 knots...18knots reported...strong eddies and violent seas should be avoided by yachts at all costs...". I followed instructions, had quite a calm sea and more-or-less correct timing. Even so, the eddies, swirls, turbulence and overfalls are impressive and unnerving. It's not a place for 'messing about in boats'. Entering Scapa Flow, you feel calm and order returning; after all, this was the base for huge fleets of warships in the two World Wars.

Now, at anchor off St Margaret's Hope (big name for such a wee place!) in the shelter of a bay in Scapa Flow, it is so intensely tranquil that you'd want to whisper rather than disturb the peace.

Hoxa Head, Scapa Flow

The Orkney Islands is an area unknown to me until I looked at the chart., but I can see I'll stay a while. it's extensive and proudly beautiful in the morning sun. There are lots of islands and sheltered anchorages, plus it's time for walking, naval history lessons and boat work. The islands have lovely names: now between South Ronaldsay and Burray, then there's Hoy, Mainland, Rousay, Shapinsay and more!

St Margaret's Hope

Stonehaven-Peterhead-Whitehills

22nd to 24th May

(Route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/104431 ) http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/map/104431?color=FF0000&opacity=0.8"></iframe>

 Two days with too much engine has taken us round the bulge of east Scotland and into the Moray Firth. Stonehaven and Whitehills are small pretty places, Peterhead big and commercial - though in sunshine everywhere is gorgeous.

It's been so hot that I had my shirt off rounding Rattray Head (no photos!); after five weeks of wearing not less than five layers, that's worth recording.

I never saw Rattray Head, less than a mile away as it's been foggy. It's one of those places you hear on the Shipping Forecast, but people tell me it's nothing special, even when you do see it.

Yesterday, despite being calm and warm was one of those exhausting day's sailing. Up at 4.30am to catch the tide, quick cup of tea, too foggy, so back to bed, overslept as fog part-lifted, missed part of tide. Delayed by ship when leaving Peterhead.....fog is tiring anyway but add a busy routine: - up full sail, up cruising chute, down main, down cruising chute, on engine, down main, up chute, off engine, wind change 180 degrees, down chute.....On reaching the enchanting little harbour at Whitehills, I was exhausted! Went to pub with Andrew from Amble, did two loads washing, cooked a meal....A life of leisure, 'tis not - but of course it beats an office!

Eyemouth-Anstruther-Arbroath-Stonehaven

19th to 21st May
(Route and photos at http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/104134  )

This is an Arbroath Smokie; very smokey, very tasty, yum-yum! It's not a kipper, but a smoked haddock. I expect you knew that.

Another fact: the big bulge of Scottish coastline that runs about 150 northeast from Edinburgh to north of Aberdeen, is, when you sail close to it, a series of fine cliffs and headlands with occasional beautiful empty beaches.

It's full of birds and yesterday, motorsailing in a calm sea, was like cutting a path through fields of guillemots, diving and fluttering to move aside; with cliffs awash with gannet colonies on the port beam.

The day before that, as we approached Arbroath, a pod of at least ten dolphins accompanied us for a mile or so, playfully diving around the bow. (I tried to take photos but, as wildlife photographers probably know, they've usually dived before the shutter clicks!)

And now, Pluto the latter-day King of the underwear, has decreed a day of warm sunshine with fog banks at sea, so, out with t-shirt and shorts, it's time to find a laundrette and enjoy a day on land

Hartlepool-North Shields-Inner Farne-Eyemouth

Wednesday 16th to Friday 18th May

Route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/104010

There's a well sheltered and beautifully kept marina at North Shields. With five of us aboard (Dave W, John F, Bill O, Anna and me) - two feeling 'not too good' in the swell - we sailed north and stayed there. We'd have needed to give 24 hours' notice to go into Newcastle - the 'blinking eye' bridge would have needed to blink open. Instead, we visited that solid city by metro.

Next day dawned with little wind and we motored a few hours before wind picked up, clouds came down and sails went up. After an exhilarating few hours sailing we entered a magical spot on Inner Farne, the 'Kettle', where a solitary Dutch boat lay at anchor. We anchored nearby with the sound, sight and smell of thousands of busy gannets, puffins, terns, kittiwakes, eider ducks and a seal, surrounding us (I know the names because Anna reminds me!). Drizzle turned to rain, and the wind started to hum in the rigging.

Pictures of Dave and other crew

Yesterday (Friday), we sailed quickly in icy rain, grey grey skies and a boisterous sea, to Eyemouth - a lesser known 'gateway to Scotland'. It's a pretty little spot with dozens of fishing boats and a few visiting yachts, made welcome by a warm welcoming Harbour Master.

Whitby to Hartlepool

Monday 14th May

(Route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/103524)

The East Coast is quicker by rail. A free day in Whitby coincided with a gala weekend for steam engines, so I took a train to the North Yorkshire Dales and walked back. I didn't travel on this train which is especially famous, but another equally smokey one. It's fascinating to watch steam engine fanatics; just like yachting fanatics really! They love their pastime, talk endlessly about it, love to share their experiences and knowledge. And if you're a sailing boat fanatic you don't really understand what people see in trains.

Yesterday, Monday, was a cool breezy day and with fresh new crew, we sailed northwest to Hartlepool in bright sunshine, past the industrial coastline of Teeside and into an eye-shutting hail storm. Now, with another day ashore, we've walked round Hartlepool. Folk are friendly but it's not been easy to find a noteworthy photograph; though this fine Italian statue of "Innocence" in an art gallery was lovely.

Yesterday, 

Scarborough to Whitby

Friday 11th May
(Route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/103097 )

Thursday was a peaceful day walking and sight-seeing in Scarborough, a very grand and ornate sort of place (though not the harbour washing facilities). The public gardens and parks were wonderful and, yes, there's plenty of fish and chips too! (These are pictures of bits of the Grand Hotel and Italian Garden)

When it rained, which it does quite a lot on the East Coast, even the cars have a bow wave.

Yesterday, Friday, we headed on to Whitby. That's a short sail for a homing fish to swim, but quite a long way with strong wind on the nose. Well-reefed in a bumpy sea, we took over five hours for the 16 fish-swimming miles (We did nearly twice as many miles). Approaching Whitby, the sun came out and, after a wait for the tide at Fish Pier, I was through the swing bridge and moored by dusk.

Lowestoft to Scarborough

Tuesday/Wednesday, 8th/9th May

Lowestoft provided a comfortable night at the Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Yacht Club marina (lots of Royal bits round here!), but the town seemed rather down-at-heel. The 'Red Herring Trail' offers a route to view older parts of the place; I tried it but the trail went cold. All was not lost, and here's a picture of Britain's easternmost Post Office!

Given the state of tides along the Norfolk coastline it was not straightforward to visit the pretty places like Aldeburgh and Wells, so that will have to be another time. Instead we headed out for Grimsby, past Great Yarmouth, busy with vessels servicing North Sea wind farms and gas fields.

It was a beautiful evening with cruising chute and empty seas. The forecast, alas, suggested horrid weather in the next day or two, so rather than face too many days in Grimsby, we decided to push on to Scarborough....and after many more hours, including memorable views of wonderful birdlife off Flamborough Head, here we are, in Scarborough. (28 hours, 139 miles - longest stretch so far)

(The route is here; but I think the battery on the GPS logger ran out because we didn't stop there!)
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/102973

Ipswich/Harwich to Lowestoft

Saturday-Monday, 5th-7th May

Ipswich wasn't on the itinerary but was a convenient port-of-call, especially as it was an unwelcome day for sailing. After walking to the station with Paul, the town proved colourful with a fantastic market, lots of fine and ornate buildings (though not I reckon, a Norman Foster edifice to darkened glass which overlooks a busy roundabout), and friendly little berth at Debbage Yachting (though sailors beware as there was a water control barrier that was raised because of all the recent rain, and I couldn't get out at all hours).

After a night at Pin Mill, a well-known haunt for East Coast sailors, and look into the popular well-kempt waterside pub (too crowded for me on a Bank Holiday weekend), The Butt & Oyster, it was time to leave the delights of the Harwich area, and head north.......

Tonight, we're in Lowestoft. New crew, Peter W, is aboard. He's very experienced having already been around Britain; and already, the squeaky head pump and squeaky mooring lines are squeak-free!

The route:  http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/102828

River Colne to Harwich (+R.Stour & Orwell)

Thursday/Friday 3rd/4th May

It's been icy cold with mist and wind the wrong way (ie. where we want to go).

Never mind, Harwich was a delightful surprise with enchanting historic streets, a welcoming Pier Master, and wonderful-looking pubs (we only entered one!). Also, the rivers Stour and Orwell where we've pottered today, have been empty, pretty and, the latter, beautifully tree-lined. Both rivers manage a good blend of the commercial and the tranquil. Here's a picture of each: a barge laden with wind-turbine bits and contented Suffolk sheep

Tonight we're moored, courtesy of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club, a little way from Ipswich.


Routes at:

tp://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/102595
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/102594

Ramsgate to River Colne

Wednesday 2nd May
(A rather wiggly route across the Thames Estuary http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/102410 )

The Thames Estuary is awash with wind turbines. Lurking in the mist they appear sinister and unearthly. Fast-moving work-boats whiz back and forth carrying the men who build and maintain them. Lots of folk clearly make a good living from the turbine business. (I only hope the people who decided we need them, have done their sums properly. Personally I'll be checking up.)

It was thus a delight to come across this comely barge as we approached the Essex coast.

Tonight, we're resting in the peacefulness of the Pyefleet Channel, somewhere near Brightlingsea in Essex. Apparently it's popular with local sailors but it's wet and no-one is here now.

We'd intended to get further north today but the wind was from there; we went slowly; grew cold and hungry; and as it happens, this is a beautiful spot.

(Sorry Peter! We'll make it to Harwich soon.)