Oban to Arisaig

24th to 26th May
Oban-Loch Drumbuie-Muck-Rum-Arisaig

There was a spell of windy weather in Oban, enough to fly the Avon (inflatable dinghy), which spun on the end of the painter till it crash-landed on deck! I couldn’t row ashore but the crew of the little ferry skilfully steered alongside so I could jump aboard and see some Oban sights and meet Anna - fresh off the Glasgow train.

Oban from Kerera mooring

Passing Ardnamurchan Point

Snow on the higher peaks!

Pretty company anchored at Rum

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Then a bright sunny day arrived giving wonderful sailing, tacking up the Sound of Mull for a night in Loch Drumbuie. Although described as ‘popular’ in the guide, we were the sole visitors. Imagine that:-a whole Scottish loch to yourselves! We scrambled up the side of the loch, pretty with wild flowers - but a bit steep for comfort – grateful a couple of hours later to get back aboard ‘Misty’.

Next, another good sailing day, past Ardnamurchan Point, to the little island of Muck. Muck for lunch, then Rum for tea - and overnight anchorage. They were

Shearwaters on the way to Muck

Arisaig

Loch Drumbuie all to ourselves!

Gift shop on Muck

the two Small Isles not visited on last year’s trip, and I’m keen to see new places when practical. Muck is little, about a mile by two miles, but Rum relatively big and distinctively mountainous. Each has a population of less than 30, and a wonderful air of seclusion and peace, and competent self-sufficiency (though ferries do call in a few days a week).

It’s been clear with fine views of the Cuillins on Skye, and snow (yes, snow!) on the higher peaks. And there’s a wealth of bird life which Anna helps identify.

Now we’re bobbing on a mooring at Arisaig, another pretty and sheltered spot surrounded by rocks, lots of boats and copses of evergreens. Strong winds and heavy rain!

Islay to Oban

19th to 21st May
Ardmore Islands-Fairy Isles-Puilladobhrain-Oban
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/131419 )

From Islay, north to the relatively big empty island of Jura, (they’re all pretty empty), where we stopped for lunch at Craighouse.

Craighouse, 'capital' of Jura

Fairytale anchorage, Fairy Isles, Loch Sween

I’d carefully inched my way onto a shallow pontoon berth as we only wanted lunch, but we were politely chivvied off an hour later as a mini-cruise ship had anchored offshore and “Serenissima” was disembarking 100 passengers in busy black ribs, for their distillery visit.

Corryvreckan under a veil of mist

Through the Sound of Luing

They wanted pontoon space.

With little wind, we motored across to Loch Sween for a night anchored in the enchanting Fairy Isles. Lofty rocks, vivid green fields, rounded hills and woodland in every shade of green, leave me thinking that fairies probably live there - or nowhere.

Up early next morning for an invigorating sail up and through the Sound of Luing and a stop for lunch at Erisaig, and a quick look at the small and delightful local museum (all about the nearby erstwhile slate industry). Last night we reached the ever-popular anchorage at Puilladobhrain, before coming on here to Oban today (Tuesday). (Time for shower, haircut, washing, shopping….but you won’t want to know that)

Puilladobhrain, always popular and pretty

Joining the ferries into Oban

Kirkcudbright to Islay

15th to 17th May
Kirkcudbright-Mull of Galloway-Port Ellen-Ardmore Islands
( route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/131418 )
After nearly a week in Kirkcudbright there was the forecast of slightly gentler winds on the way, and some fishing boats left the quay in Kirkcudbright. So we sailed out and enjoyed a heavily reefed and splashy beat west to the Mull of Galloway.

Leaving Kirkcudbright

Off to the Mull of Galloway

Dawn, leaving East Tarbert, Mull of Galloway

There at dusk, we anchored in the lee of the Mull. Then up at dawn for a fantastic sail northwards, with Isle of Man astern, Ireland on the left, Lake District far behind, and Scotland on the right. It was a memorable and beautiful day and we quickly reached the Mull of Kintyre, before heading on to Islay and a comfortable berth in Port Ellen – altogether a happy way to travel 80 miles.

"Athena" nearby while heading north

Port Ellen, Islay

Superyacht "Hampshire" in Port Ellen

There are not many superyachts in these parts but the “Hampshire” was anchored nearby and we chatted to the good-natured captain (they’re captains not skippers on such boats!). “Hampshire” was off to Stornoway (12 crew, up to 16 guests) before London and a party in a few days! She’s to moor alongside HMS Belfast.

Next day we moved briskly up the Islay coast to anchor among the rocks of the Ardmore Islands at Plod Sgeiran, alongside many plump and contented seals.

Ardmore Islands, with seals and peacefulness

Kildalton Cross

A secluded anchorage, Plod Sgeiran

It’s near Kildalton Cross which Lonely Planets tells us is “the only remaining Celtic High Cross in Scotland (8th Century)”. We walked there next day.

Kirkcudbright

9th to 12th May
Kirkcudbright - stuck!

If you have to be stuck anywhere then Kirkcudbright is a good place to do it. ‘Misty’ is the only visiting boat, and we’ve been on this pontoon so long that I feel like a local. And, everyone is very hospitable. Peter the harbour master and Keith, his assistant, are fantastic and we’ve looked at all the websites to check forecasts; and can’t find any that are too promising. (Incidentally, for sailors among you, the fishermen rate XC weather as being especially good for wind forecasts.) The fishing boats are all staying in harbour. So too is John, a local with a Warrior 38 moored next to me; and that’s a beast of a boat with fabulous teak decks, that he’s sailed round the world.

Fishing boats and 'Misty' stuck in Kirkcudbright

Between boat chores and reading and chatting, I’ve walked miles. And then spent a whole day buying a tin of boat varnish in a tiny pretty place called Kippford! That’s because it needed two buses to get there, with a stop to view Dalbeattie Museum on the way, and, as I’d bought a day’s Explorer Bus Ticket, a trip to Dumfries and then Castle Douglas on the way home.

At Kippford, it seems there lives an eccentric artist who has sculpted pieces of driftwood to resemble fish, people, birds etc Here’s a sample.

Sculpture at Kippford

Kippford, a peaceful spot for bilge keelers

Dalbeattie Museum is quite a grand name for what resembles a converted corner shop; and I didn’t see much, preferring instead to talk with the colourful lady who seemed to be in charge. (She reminded me of a very spunky version of those public-spirited ladies who watch over rooms in National Trust properties. I could well believe the Viking ancestry that she claimed.)

Dumfries is big. It has lots of Robert Burns history/memorabilia and a Marks & Spencer – a useful sort of place.

Dumfries - 'Burnsville'

So, all in all, I can recommend this little-visited patch of Scotland. Glad it’s nice because sometimes I wonder if the winds will ever let me leave! Given tidal patterns between here and the Clyde you probably need a couple of good days to move on.

Gnomes - Kirkcudbright style

A pretty walk to Tongland hydropower station

Trials with new camera!

Waiting for wind to drop a bit

Douglas to Kirkcudbright

5th to 8th May
Douglas,IoM,-Whitehaven-Little Ross-Kirkcudbright
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/131417 )
Days of contrast: hot sunshine has been replaced with wet and icy blasts fresh from the Atlantic. After a final day on the Isle of Man, walking up Snaefell (not using the electric mountain railway), it was time to move on.

A walk up Snaefell, IoM

Perfect sailing over to Whitehaven

Crossing from the Isle of Man to Whitehaven was perfect, and the day after was the hottest of the year so far. In Whitehaven, it was especially good to meet friends and buy new socks.

Whitehaven is one of the ports used in the Three Peaks event (where sailors-cyclists-runners rush round Snowdon, Scafell and Ben Nevis), but I am here for leisure purposes, so went shopping.
Then locked out for the sail north to Scotland and a restless night anchored off a wee island, Little Ross. The first oystercatchers of the trip were busy nearby.

Locking out of Whitehaven

Sleepless anchorage off Little Ross

     

Next morning was windy and Range Control Vessel came alongside to say firing would start soon, just offshore of my anchorage. I was happy to follow his suggestion that I accompany the fishing boats and head upriver to Kirkcudbright.

Oystercatcher on Little Ross

The fishing fleet, which specialises in scallop fishing, is moored up. Gales are forecast, and it’s wet.

I am not proud to say that until a week ago I didn’t know where Kirkcudbright was, what it did, or even how to pronounce it. Now I can

Upriver to Kirkcudbright, in heavy rain

Unloading the scallops

Windy and fishing boats stay in harbour

say it is on the River Dee. There’s a good scallop and tourist industry, and it’s a very attractive spot with lots of art and gentle walks, and with delightful folk who all seem happy to chat and offer advice. (Sailing advice is to stay here awhile).

Holyhead to Douglas, IoM

2nd to 4th May
Holyhead-Derby Haven-Douglas
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/130270 )

Photos all over the place! Blogspot website very troublesome.

Briskly over to the Isle of Man

Unhavenly Derby Haven

Best not to look behind you!

You go under this bascule bridge to Douglas Inner Harbour

Peel, from Peel Hill

IoM is heaven for motorcyclists

The Swellies (from train). To be sailed another day.

It's been a busy few days: luckily I located a spare belt for auto helm near Bangor so took train from Holyhead (fine views of Snowdonia with pockets of snow still not thawed), brisk hot walk to Dickies boatyard, train home (ie. Misty), repaired steering, changed engine battery.
Next day a challenging brisk toboggan ride under furled genoa to IoM. F.7 is 'Mist's' limit - and mine! (In case Moody owners tell me they've been through hurricanes, I'd say that it does get tricky when 'Misty' starts to surf wildly, and my mug of tea is toppled on the cockpit floor.)The forecast had suggested less. Derby Haven was a misnomer and it took nearly an hour to secure to a big weedy buoy, having failed to anchor securely. ( I later learn that Jeremy Clarkson owns the lighthouse just outside the 'haven'. His wife is Manx, and there's gossip I don't listen to! He'd lost a court case to divert a right-of-way. Coincidentally, there's no speed limit on IoM open roads...altogether a most peculiar place.)
Phew! There's not much leisure on board.
Reached the peace of Douglas Inner Harbour early Saturday morning. Had day out on bus to Peel (along with hen party hens in pink), a prettier place for visiting yachts I reckon, than Douglas, and there's a fascinating castle, plus Peel Hill to walk on. The Isle of Man is TT mad (the racing is next month) and already thick orange mats are draped round lamp posts and there are red and white pads on walls. DVDs, books, t-shirts and tattoo parlours offer you anything you want in the way of TT interest and art.
As I'll probably never be here again, I'll stay another day to see some more. There's a steam train and electric train and it is a most unusual place! (Photos another time)