Shetland to Orkney

22nd to 28th June
Scalloway-Skelda Voe-Fair Isle-Stronsay-Rousay-Houton Bay-Hoy-Stromness
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/134430 )
oops! seem to have accidentally deleted the bit from Scrabster to Shetland; route was http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/134593 )
Running out of time in the Northern Isles and, if we’re honest, feeling chilly, we sailed to Skeld in Shetland’s Skelda Voe, before a very soggy ice-cold walk encouraged us to turn south. You need much more than a week to see Shetland. Its biggest island, called Mainland, is alone more than twice the size of the Isle of Wight. The island of Yell, which you may have heard of, is three times as large as Guernsey.

Yaol Race at Scalloway, Shetland

Soggy day at Skeld, but there's whiskey in this hut (there really is!)

Pretty Shetland sheep with special ears

Although tourist leaflet says the sea doesn’t freeze round here, Janet at the little campsite, told us otherwise. It’s as far north as southern Greenland. But, on the plus side, it doesn’t get dark in mid-summer and some of the sheep have long ears! For me, Shetland seemed quite foreign, much more Norwegian than British; and hospitable local folk often seem to feel more affinity for Norway than Alex Salmond.

It was rough and windy and cold for sailing south to Fair Isle. After a brisk walk across the island and an uncomfortable wallowing quayside berth for the night, on next day to the Orkney Island of Stronsay. Sailing gives appreciation of distances. That was two days’ sailing in a big swell with about 40 miles each day. (Quicker than the Fair Isle plane from Shetland though, which hadn’t been able to land for two days!)

Fair Isle, "Good Shepherd" ferry on the slip

A big swell, leaving Fair Isle heading South

Having recently been given Haswell-Smith’s wonderful book of Scottish Islands, I’m awash with fascinating geology, history and natural history. Stronsay is just one of the 27 Orkney islands over 40 hectares detailed in the book. After a peaceful night off Stronsay and stroll through lush green fertile fields, on we sailed to another Orkney island - Rousay. (By timing the spring tidal streams right, you can shift fast from one island to another.) Then, after visiting the amazing Trumland House on Rousay – recently acquired and being gradually restored by its new Lincolnshire owner – we sailed round to Scapa Flow and anchored in Houton Bay. (For sailors who seldom use marinas, this is a good spot as there are little ferries serving the islands and buses to Kirkwall and Stromness.We took a bus to Kirkwall for the morning!) So far, we have had every anchorage to ourselves; and often we sail all day without seeing another boat. The Solent and SW England will seem sociable when we get back.

Anchored off Rousay

Lots of pretty flowers wherever we go

Trumland House

Anna feeling the cold (spot the hot water bottle!)

St Magnus Cathedral

Thursday was hot and sunny  - interruptions at Wimbledon, I think, but not here. We anchored for a night off the island of Hoy and walked to see Dwarfie Stane. This massive Neolithic lump of hollowed out sandstone is stunningly situated beneath awe-inspiring cliffs, and it’s staggering to imagine early man carving out the rock with simple stone tools. There are of course lots of tales of giants and trolls associated with it.

A peaceful Hoy anchorage

Seal serenade at dusk

Weather changes fast. Friday dawned super wet with cold low-flying cloud. So we’ve moved to Stromness marina for life’s pleasant non-essentials like shower, washing machine and co-op. There’s the ferry back to mainland Scotland for Anna to head home too.

For me, original plans for heading back via Caledonian Canal are cancelled. I’ll go southwest to Cape Wrath instead. There’s much more to see on Scotland’s northwest coast and in the Hebrides; and I can see the Caledonian Canal in a car one day when I’m older and wiser.

Stornoway to Scrabster

11th to 14th June
Stornoway-Loch a’Chadh-fi-Loch Eriboll-Kyle of Tongue-Scrabster

Hot sunny calm weather has disappeared for the time being. The plus side is that there has been some exhilarating and splashy sailing.

John Ridgway's place at Ardmore

View from Ardmore

Also, it’s thrilling to see the swooping, soaring sea birds that magically skim the crests of wild waves. They make noisy RAF jets appear clumsy.

Striking stack near C. Wrath

And so, round Cape Wrath

Brisk sail down Loch Eriboll

First stop after leaving the Hebrides astern was a little loch off Loch Laxford, where John Ridgway set up his Ardmore Adventure Centre. As you’d expect, it seems very remote and stunningly beautiful.

Next day, north and round Cape Wrath to Loch Eriboll, so I’m now on top of UK mainland. Two little facts: ‘Wrath’ gets its name from the Norse ‘hvarf’, a turning point, and not because it’s angry or wild – makes it seem less of a hurdle if you keep that in mind. Also, Lonely Planet suggests Loch Eriboll is the country’s deepest sea inlet, though I think this may be wrong as it’s only about 60 metres. It was bleak, wet and windswept; and I left next day, shooting down the loch with tiny bit of genoa and over 7 knots….on to Kyle of Tongue, another indentation in the top of Scotland.

Cruising along the top of Scotland

Next, and now, Scrabster, from where one of the ferries goes to Orkney. After some persuasion, the harbour master allowed ‘Misty’ and another visiting yacht to move from an uninviting sheet pile quay (better suited to steel-hulled ships than plastic sailing boats) to the little marina. Anna is arriving on this evening’s train from Inverness…need to do some housework first!

There's not much to see in Scrabster

L. Rodel, Harris to Stornoway

7th to 9th June
Loch Rodel-Scalpay-Loch Mariveg-Stornoway
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/133217 )

There are lots of enticing lochs and islands along the east coast of Harris and Lewis. We had short hops and plenty of sunny leisure. Everywhere is fabulous, at least while it stays so calm and warm.

Smart fishing boats at Scalpay

For me, a particular favourite was Camas Thormaid within the rock-strewn Loch Mariveg. Local yachtsmen know it as the Witches’ Pool  – though we couldn’t really see why. Navigation for this is quite challenging and if, like me, you do a lot of navigation by I-phone, I’d recommend using the Sailing Directions in the book for this bit as I-phone doesn’t show all the rocks!

Safely snug in 'Witches' Pool', Loch Marivaig

Now, we are secure on a pontoon in Stornoway. The sun still shines and we enjoyed Sunday lunch in the nearby Royal Hotel (thank you, Cynny). Given that almost everything in Stornoway closes on Sunday (even Tesco and Co-op!), it appeared that it all happens in the Royal Hotel. Food was good, beer was special, and local young children mingled cheerfully with lycra-clad cyclists who gather here before pedalling the length of the Hebrides.

Into Stornoway Harbour

Stornoway

Kyle of Lochalsh to Harris

4th to 6th June
Kyle of LA –Rona-Gairloch-L. Rodel
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/133216 )

There have been fantastic warm sunny days, albeit with mostly gentle north east winds. We can handle it!

Gently ghosting to the Hebrides

Peaceful in Acharseid Mhor, Rona

Cynny and Bill on Rona

'Misty' under the mist, Acarseid Mhor

From Kyle, we motorsailed most of the way via lunch stop in Loch Toscaig, to the anchorage, Acarseid Mhor (Gaelic ‘large anchorage’) on Rona. It is really a very little anchorage, but enough room for the two boats there.

Bill Cowie is the estate manager for the Danish lady owner of the Isle of Rona. He and Lorraine are the only two inhabitants. He kindly showed me the electricity generation system for the island (windmill + ageing Lister), and we bought half a dozen very free-range eggs. Then, sailed conformably to Gairloch, as I couldn’t face lots of tacking to go round the north of Skye.

Next morning was sunny – again. (Lots of pink flesh!) We enjoyed an easy reach and run 45 miles over to the Outer Hebrides, much of it ghosting over calm sea with cruising chute. Cynny quickly got the hang of ‘Misty’s’ quirks, and my indecisiveness; and we timed (by chance rather than plan) the journey to enter an enchanting deep little pool, Poll an Tighmhail, off L. Rodel, S. Harris, where you are fully enclosed at low tide. St Clements Church is nearby but bread and milk were a five-mile walk away!

St Clements Church and primroses

Another quiet spot entered via channel at bottom right (with more water)

Isle of Rum to Kyle of Lochalsh

1st to 3rd June
Rum-Loch Scavaig-Isle Ornsay-Loch Duich-Kyle of Lochalsh
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/133214 )
There’ve been beautiful breezes and warmer days. From the Isle of Rum, it was a short crossing to Loch Scavaig.

A beautiful day south of Skye

Loch Scavaig is described in sailing directions as “one of the most dramatic and awe-inspiring anchorages in Europe. It is set deep in the cirque of the Black Cuillins of Skye. It is wild and totally remote from civilisation, but visited by tourist launches, and rockclimbers who use the bothy by the shore”. So, you can see why I was tempted. And it lived up to the description. I clambered up a cliff to take the photo.

Loch na Cuilce in Loch Scavaig

Another view of same

Beautiful it is, but prone to “violent downdrafts”. I left after walk and lunch. Sure enough, just after I’d set the genoa, along came such a downdraft and poor ‘Misty’ suffered her first knock-down. Just a few seconds, but enough to smash a lot of crockery. The bright side is that I can measure the angle of tilt from the marks made by breaking plates: about 85 degrees. Another lesson learnt!

On then for a night at Isle Ornsay, convenient, but a bit dull after Scavaig. And yesterday through Kyle Rhea to Loch Duich, where there’s a peaceful anchorage opposite this castle, Eilean Donan, prettily floodlit at night.

Company sailing through Kyle Rhea

Eilean Donan Castle

Now I’ve found a bar in Kyle of Lochalsh, awaiting new crew. The bar has wi-fi, tennis on telly, and beer…brilliant…and convenient!

Up to Kyle of LA, Skye Bridge ahead

Arisaig to Rum

27th to 31st May
Arisaig-Mallaig-Loch Hourn-Inverie-Rum
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/133219 )

Silver lining over Mallaig fishing boats

Loch Hourn Beag

Mallaig has a train station and fuel and Co-op and is at the centre of an especially beautiful sailing area, so it’s a useful spot. [Sailors be aware though that the ‘marina’ has no facilities – not even toilet block - yet charges £2.40/m ( + extra for electric) so even though the harbour master was fantastic and very helpful, I’d say, ‘Vote with your boat’!]

From Mallaig, I had a short sail to the fabulous Loch Hourn and after a peaceful night at anchor ventured through the four sets of narrows 10 miles to the inner loch, Loch Hourn Beag. It was a warm day despite snow still being on the nearby peaks, and a magical place. But, if you’ve a deep keel, it’s probably best to heed the pilot’s advice for the final narrows and “survey by dinghy before attempting a passage”. As it was, there were still a few inches under ‘Misty’s’ keel.(None of the supposed leading marks were clear: no shed, or tree, or bed of iris that seemed relevant!)

Next, on to Inverie, largely because so many people have referred to the pub there, and the angelic staff have T-shirts that proclaim it’s “the remotest pub on mainland Britain”. Well, it wasn’t Wetherspoons, but seemed pretty busy and tables were fully booked, so I just enjoyed a beer.

The Old Forge, Inverie

New beer from Old Forge

Now we’re back to the island of Rum. Last week, when in Rum, it was too windy to go ashore. Better luck this time, and I’ve had a memorable walk up Hallival – a lovely romantic Viking name, describing one of the peaks they used for navigation a thousand years ago. And later, I joined a tour of  Edwardian Kinloch Castle, which was built as the holiday home of a Lancastrian millionaire. It’s a bit decayed but is a fascinating place and home for many sad stag’s stuffed heads.

Windy walk up Hallival

Kinloch Castle

Spot the stag's heads

Another useful fact: Rum is the midge capital of Scotland. Also, it has special birds, which there isn’t time to write much about, but include the whitetailed sea eagle and nesting Manx shearwater,and red necked divers.