Saturday 2 June 2012

Orkney to Kinlochbervie

Sunday 27th May to Friday 1st June
Routes (when the page opens, click the left of three icons that appear)http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/105357
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/105360

After several days, I only covered some of the southern part of the Orkney Islands.
I'll have to come back to see the northern part. It feels fabulously remote, yet alive, friendly and unspoilt. It's been a joy to enjoy long walks and meet the few resilient folk who inhabit the smaller islands.

(With no Pilot book and only one chart for this part of the world, because I wasn't sure I'd come here, the i-phone app from Navionics comes into its own!)
Here's a smug-looking seal on a gatepost, and - not a boring bit of wood - this is Britain's mot northerly stand of natural woodland (It's on Hoy).

One stop in Stromness for water and a shower, but otherwise very peaceful anchorages. It's so quiet that I haven't even seen another sailing boat outside Stromness. (favourite spot? Bay of Creekland, sounds as if it's in a fairytale, 'twixt Hoy and Graemsay - just seals for company and they think the Avon inflatable is a long lost cousin).

The easterlies, that made so many places unapproachable on England's east coast, gave the opportunity to sail close to the Old Man of Hoy, and then anchor at Rackwick. (It was uninhabited till recently and is rather a rolly-poly place to anchor.)

In fact, the anchorage at Rackwick was so rolly that falling out of bed woke me abruptly at 2am! Decided to get up and sail off in pre-dawn light to Cape Wrath and Kinlochbervie (another beautiful day of mainly broad reaching - albeit aware that the wind had only just left the Arctic). 70 miles in 13 hours - a lot of it before people usually get out of bed!

Here in Kinlochbervie, I've met intrepid Ludo, who is sailing round Britain, clockwise, in a Wayfarer dinghy. Here's a photo of him (he's the good-looking one on the left!) and current crew in the local hotel and meeting place.
His is an amazing venture and makes normal cruising sailors like me feel rather 'soft'! He's also raising money for charity, so do have a look at his website
www.loveludo.com

This is my first Scottish Loch - it's peaceful and the walks are rugged and breath-taking.
Furthermore, the harbourmaster has more charts (posted as requested, but still a relief to have them!)

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