Firth of Clyde

Wednesday 4th to Sunday 8th July
Campbeltown-Lochranza-Kyles of Bute-Millport
Route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/108353

Apparently, this is one of the most photographed boats in Britain, if not the world. She's the paddle steamer Waverley and she hurried past me through the Kyles of Bute, cloaked in drizzle on a calm sea. She was built in 1946 and travels very fast. Yes, it's the same boat that often appears in Bristol in the late summer.

Light winds and lots of rain and drizzle has been a reason to go walking, so I haven't moved far in Misty, just brief visits to Arran and, now, Millport on Great Cumbrai Island (where most of the known world is listening or watching the Men's Final at Wimbledon). There have been some pretty sunsets though, and we've met some lovely people on pretty boats. 

Tomorrow, I'll have new crew and must think about moving on!

Jura to Campbeltown

Sunday 1st July to Tuesday 3rd July
Craighouse-Gigha Is.-Sanda Is.-Campbeltown
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/107994

Sanda Island is tiny. It was recently bought by a Swiss couple who live in Stockholme. They've added colour with the sky-blue sheep and vivid pink ornate plastic armchairs. They'vealso employed a very young fascinating couple of Belgians to manage it; though the Swiss couple visit every week. (Don't ask me how!) The (Flemish) Belgian girl's language skills include the English for razorbill, which is impressive.

For a sailor as indecisive as me, Scotland is a nightmare as I can never decide where to go; there are far too many wonderful choices. I seldom end up where I aimed to go. Sanda Island was one example. But when the wind died and I felt hungry and the tide was rather strong, it was conveniently in just the right place.

Now, two days later, it's very misty, drizzly, windy, and pretty horrid, so it's good there's a distillery to visit, a laundrette and some points of interest. This is a picture of the Linda McCartney memorial garden. Campbeltown is busy with boats; after my company on Jura (below), that's good.

Oban to Jura

Tuesday 26th to Friday 29th June
Oban-Loch Melfort-Corryvreckan-Loch Tarbert, Jura-Drum an Dunan
(route and photos http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/107652 )

No giant hailstones here, but thunder rumbled over the Paps of Jura. It's been pretty wet and, last night, anchored in a very secluded spot on Jura, the rain pounded down and thunder did rumble in the dark, heavy, electric air. I was in the fairytale anchorage of Cumhann Beag. (As the pilot says, "There is no Admiralty chart coverage", and iPhone app wasn't up to it, so I really did need pilot book sketches!). Such places are made in dreamland. I love them.

The night before was spent in another amazing anchorage. It has the fabulous name, "Bagh Gleann nam Muc". It's tucked away next to the Gulf of Corryvreckan -  which keeps most casual visitors away. I only went there because the joys of soggy rain-soaked spot in Loch Melfort wore thin, and seeing it was quite calm and near neap tides, what better chance to visit infamous Corry? In fact, the notorious Corryvreckan was a twitchy experience, less because of the renowned eddies, rips and whirlpool, but because of mist. However, once committed, you have to "go with the flow". There was a busy survey boat roaring back and forth. It ended up sharing my anchorage next to the Gulf. It is in the picture with mist in the background.

Tonight I'll have a third night anchored off Jura - at Drum an Dunan. I have not been ashore for four days but the one and only Jura distillery is a mile or two south, and that will tempt me to row ashore tomorrow if the wind slackens. (Incidentally, you probably know this, but Jura is grand, green and amazing! It is wild and empty with vivid green mountains and outcrops of harsh rock. It's about 25 miles long but hardly anyone lives here. George Orwell stayed a while when he wanted real peace and seclusion.)

Lochs and Islands 3

Friday 22nd to Tuesday 26th June
Tobermory-Coll-Iona-Puilladobhrain-Oban
Route & photos http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/107272

Saturday was one of those days of sailing super-contrasts. It started on a mooring in Coll, a little island I guess I'd never heard of before this trip. Too windy and horrid to row ashore, we set off for Iona about 20 miles away. The photo does not capture the waves, noise, wind, cold, poor visibility and feelings of nausea! But, F6/7 and well-furled genoa gave us over 6 knots. We saw nothing of the islands we passed and could have been sailing anywhere.

Then, we picked up a buoy for lunch in Bull Hole, opposite Iona; the wind calmed, skies cleared, everyone felt better and we went ashore on Iona (2nd photo). There, the corncrakes (apparently a rare bird, not a rare breakfast cereal) entertained us with their distinctive calls and invisibility! As evening drew in, we motored across, under a blue sky and calm sea to Tinker's Hole on Mull. And all of that was just a single day!

Lochs and Islands 2

Mallaig-Loch Harport-S.Uist-Barra-Berneray-Canna-Tobermory
Saturday 16th to Thursday 21st June
(route and photos at http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/106950 )

Taliskers Distillery on Skye used to give its workers four drams a day then, when Diageo took over, two cases a year of yummy malt whiskey. "There were no accidents in those days, but now, with Health & Safety, the whiskey's stopped, and .....". We didn't visit the distillery but gleaned this first hand from a bright healthy smiling retired worker, on our walk round the shores of Loch Harport.

No time for distilleries! We've been too busy sailing and walking some lesser-visited parts of the Outer Hebrides (highlight probably the uninhabited southern tip, Berneray, where bird life, high brightly painted lighthouse, seals - for Richard to make friends with, sunshine and orchids made for magic); then Small Isle Canna, and now Tobermory (showers and washing machine - and rain!).

Superworkers, super-competent crew - Anna, Richard and Allan - mean I can relax, manicure my toenails and wash my underwear.

Here are some pictures (I hope): puffin, orchid, crew and Misty.

Lochs and Islands 1

10th to 14th June
Gairloch-Rona-Plockton-Loch Hourn-Eigg-Mallaig
(see route at http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/106413 )

There's a lot of truly magnificent and memorable coastline in this empty corner of Britain. It is getting busier though! Even the exquisite and rock-strewn anchorage at Acarseid Mhor on the Isle of Rona (pop. 2) had two other boats at anchor.
From there I sailed peacefully out next morning, and was jolted to attention by VHF call asking me to alter course away from submarine exercise. (Apparently this patch of sea - very deep - is where nuclear submarines get checked before going on patrol). I didn't see the sub but saw several range control vessels that keep an eye on things; and can see that exercising a nuclear submarine is not like exercising your pet spaniel.

At Plockton's peaceful and rhododendron lined station, I met Anna and Jonathan, fresh from Inverness. We sailed next morning under the bridge to Skye, via a pretty pool opposite a gaunt castle (Eillean Donan), and on to Loch Hourn. There we vied to take the best rainbow photo.

Then, time for another island, we chose Eigg. It's one of those places, most have heard of but few visit I guess. For a little island it makes a prominent sight, over 1,000ft at the top, south of Skye. Pol nam Partan, where we're pictured provides another rock-strewn empty anchorage.
Then we sailed north again and now we're in Mallaig. I've found wi-fi!

Hebrides to Gairloch

Thursday-Saturday, 7th-9th June
http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/106014

Here's a picture fit for your Hebrides Calendar 2013! Leaving early from Scalpa it was picture-postcard-calm. And at last a dolphin appeared as the camera shutter clicked; it was one of lots that accompanied my sail back to the mainland. I'm convinced they like my singing because, if I'm quiet, they lose interest and swim away. (No-one else has ever rated my singing.)

I visited a couple of spots in Loch Ewe, while it was quite windy (though nothing like the Isle of Wight) and I didn't want to venture out. At Inverewe, there are well-known gardens (National Trust for Scotland). I rowed ashore and landed there and lurked off, feeling like Peter Rabbit in Mr McGregor's garden; though the gardens were't yet open for the day, and no-one was there.

Now I'm tucked up in Gairloch (26 miles sailed for a car journey that would have been less than 5 miles. It's often the other way round.)

It feels quite crowded and there are four other visiting sailing boats here, including Swede and Frenchman.We're tied up among fishing boats and tripper boats with glass bottoms; and I know it's not the Solent but after Orkney it feels busy.