Thursday 22 May 2014

Campbeltown to Jura

16th to 20th May
Campbeltown-Gigha Is.-L.Caolisport-Jura (W. Loch Tarbert)
Route and pics

Paps of Jura

Once round the Mull of Kintyre, the most beautiful and gently magnificent parts of Scotland’s coastline start to appear. It’s not yet as rugged and awe-inspiring as north of Ardnamurchan, but there’re green forests and rolling foothills here, as well as high peaks.

Gigha isn’t especially inspiring, I think, and it rained a lot. But I hired a bike and did visit Achamore Gardens, which are fabulous – really wonderful and, at this time of year, awash with vivid colourful rhododendrons, camellias etc.
Bike tour of Gigha (in the rain)

Wonderful colour.....

....everywhere...

Canal-like entrance to inner Loch Tarbert, Jura

L. Caolisport is a less-visited Loch, and I had all of it just for me and Misty. (Where is everyone?).

Then, over to my favourite of Inner Hebrides islands: Jura. Jura’s West Loch Tarbert has a series of fine views of the Paps, lots of raised beaches, and a series of lochs, each with plenty of rocky hazards! Approaching the Top Pool, you go through Cumhann Beag, which has no charts. It is as narrow as a canal and currents up to 8 knots if timed wrong. (Did me good to dispense with I-phone navigation and use the two sets of three transit lines – phew!)

Among so much beauty it is shocking and sad though to see so much plastic rubbish on scarcely visited beaches. It is mainly discarded fishing gear: large masses of stout net, bits of fading polypropylene rope, pot marker buoys, and plastic bottles, a decaying shoe, broken pink dustpan. Scattered along pure deserted beaches, it’ll be there for at least a generation; and that’s after thousands of years when the beaches will have been totally unblemished. Modern humans are a messy bunch.
Top Pool, W. Loch Tarbert (rowed the last bit!)

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