Stornoway to Isle of Man

30th July to 6th August
Stornoway-Rona-Loch Hourn-Loch Scavaig-Ulva-Oronsay-Machrihanish-Portmuck-Peel
Route

Leaving Acharseid Mhor, Rona

South of Skye, approaching Loch Scavaig

Sailing in northwest Scotland is often magical and there’ll always be new and amazing places to discover. But among the stupendous mountains, glorious wildlife and clear waters, don’t forget it’s often cold and wet, and isolated; and midgies seem especially ravenous for tasty human blood. It wouldn’t suit everyone!
Heading south from Stornoway, I’ve revisited a few favourite spots and tried some new ones. I’d thought of sailing to Devon solely stopping at islands on the way, but soon found this was too restrictive, especially now I’m trying to get a move on – but perfectly feasible if you have time. Anyway, Ulva (off Mull) and Oronsay (next to Colonsay) and Isle of Muck (N. Ireland) were new to me. The tide beat me round Mull of Kintyre (so couldn’t make Sanda Is.) and I ended up at Machrihanish.

Popular anchorage under the Cuillins, Skye

....and walk in the hills...

Sailing past Iona Abbey...not stopping this time...

Empty (and windswept) anchorage off little island of Oronsay....

....which has fascinating remains of 15th century priory..

...through Sound of Islay (distinctive scent of fermenting malt in the air!)

There, I found a tiny and pretty spot among rocks out of the swell next to the disused Machrihanish lifeboat station – until a local fisherman came over and told me it wasn’t a good idea! I was only the third boat he’d seen there in 60 years, and I moved to a ‘safer’ spot, though very roly-poly one! The lifeboat was apparently removed and station closed in 1931. It had been very restricted with encroaching boulders and reefs. (And I’ve since learnt that that old lifeboat, “Henry Finlay”, now restored, lives on the River Dart in Devon, Website here – isn’t the internet amazing?)

View from anchorage off Machrihanish

Then a brisk sail round Mull of Kintyre...leaving Scottish waters

..

..and time I left too...(new flag needed next year!)

The Scottish courtesy flag was badly frayed by the time I left Scottish waters, even after Anna’s fine sewing repairs - perhaps a sign it is time to move on. Nonetheless I feel sad to be heading south. (Yes, I know it might be warmer!)

First stop after Scotland was to be Isle of Muck (N.I.) but not tenable today, so I went to Portmuck next door. (There’s another Isle of Muck in Scotland. Muck means ‘pig’ in Gaelic, so perhaps it’s where the word came from.)

Now I’ve reached Peel, I.o.M, three months to-the-day since last here. The replica Viking longship that we’d seen in Caledonian Canal is also here, just arrived from Liverpool, with a new and stouter mast. The old one, which was lost in strong winds near Orkney, has apparently just been washed up in Shetland. The mainly Scandinavian crew is delightful, fascinating and unflappable.

First landfall in N. Ireland (View from anchorage at Portmuck)

Longship in Peel Harbour, IoM, with fine new mast

Strong winds forecast, so I’ll be a tourist in Isle of Man for a few days.