Sailing Misty: Orkney to Stornoway

23rd to 29th July
Stromness-Loch Eriboll-Handa Is.-L. Nedd-L. Glencoul-Lochinver-Stornoway
Route

From the Orkney Islands, Devon seems quite a long way south. Summer sailing joy can’t go on forever, and now it’s time to head for home.

Out of Stromness past Old Man of Hoy...

...and heading south west for home...

Photos out from Stromness don’t indicate the fog banks that blanketed the sea over half the top of Scotland. Fog troubles me so it was a tiring day and I was pleased to reach a tranquil anchorage in Loch Eriboll.

Tranquility in Loch Eriboll

On next morning round Cape Wrath, the north-west corner of Scotland. A minke whale was on a parallel course it seemed!

It was a wonderful calm and hot day and I stopped at the bird sanctuary of Handa Island – a narrow rock-bound anchorage that’s lively with the high-pitched song of energetic terns. (Among other wonders here: it’s the breeding site of most of Britain’s guillemots)

This whale cruised along to Cape Wrath

Handsome fog horn at C. Wrath

Anchored at Handa Island

Camera-shy guillemots

When it’s so hot at the top of Scotland I lose any desire for the Mediterranean! But it’s not always so and I visited fine tree-lined Loch Nedd next day, partly because Libby Purves and her family sheltered here during stormy summer weather some years ago when they sailed round Britain (“north-easterly gale…roared in bringing dirty weather and drenching rain…”). Today it was about 25 degrees and unsheared sheep were dopey in unaccustomed heat.

Hot day in Loch Nedd

...and walk to Drumbeg..

I walked up to Drumbeg before sailing on under Kylesku Bridge to the end of Loch Glencoul, a mini loch called Beag. As it says in Sailing Directions”…very wild and remote scenery…severe downdrafts in windy weather…” Even in calm weather the wind blew all over the place, but it was so beautiful you wanted to breath in deep breaths of magnificent pure mountain air.

...under Kylesku Bridge..

...near fine waterfalls..

..to wild remote spot, Loch Beag

Then, in need of diesel, I sailed to Lochinver (no fuel Saturday pm or Sunday), and I’d already been told there was none at Kylesku! So, next day, a slow sail over to Hebrides and the busy port of Stornoway. Now Stornoway is wonderful in many ways - not least because the people, and especially Port Authority staff, are disarmingly helpful and welcoming. In no time I was refuelled (a Sunday too!)

Now a strong wind whistles through the rigging and I’m stuck for a day or two. Stornoway is a good place to be stuck!