Shetland to Orkney

22nd to 28th June
Scalloway-Skelda Voe-Fair Isle-Stronsay-Rousay-Houton Bay-Hoy-Stromness
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/134430 )
oops! seem to have accidentally deleted the bit from Scrabster to Shetland; route was http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/134593 )
Running out of time in the Northern Isles and, if we’re honest, feeling chilly, we sailed to Skeld in Shetland’s Skelda Voe, before a very soggy ice-cold walk encouraged us to turn south. You need much more than a week to see Shetland. Its biggest island, called Mainland, is alone more than twice the size of the Isle of Wight. The island of Yell, which you may have heard of, is three times as large as Guernsey.

Yaol Race at Scalloway, Shetland

Soggy day at Skeld, but there's whiskey in this hut (there really is!)

Pretty Shetland sheep with special ears

Although tourist leaflet says the sea doesn’t freeze round here, Janet at the little campsite, told us otherwise. It’s as far north as southern Greenland. But, on the plus side, it doesn’t get dark in mid-summer and some of the sheep have long ears! For me, Shetland seemed quite foreign, much more Norwegian than British; and hospitable local folk often seem to feel more affinity for Norway than Alex Salmond.

It was rough and windy and cold for sailing south to Fair Isle. After a brisk walk across the island and an uncomfortable wallowing quayside berth for the night, on next day to the Orkney Island of Stronsay. Sailing gives appreciation of distances. That was two days’ sailing in a big swell with about 40 miles each day. (Quicker than the Fair Isle plane from Shetland though, which hadn’t been able to land for two days!)

Fair Isle, "Good Shepherd" ferry on the slip

A big swell, leaving Fair Isle heading South

Having recently been given Haswell-Smith’s wonderful book of Scottish Islands, I’m awash with fascinating geology, history and natural history. Stronsay is just one of the 27 Orkney islands over 40 hectares detailed in the book. After a peaceful night off Stronsay and stroll through lush green fertile fields, on we sailed to another Orkney island - Rousay. (By timing the spring tidal streams right, you can shift fast from one island to another.) Then, after visiting the amazing Trumland House on Rousay – recently acquired and being gradually restored by its new Lincolnshire owner – we sailed round to Scapa Flow and anchored in Houton Bay. (For sailors who seldom use marinas, this is a good spot as there are little ferries serving the islands and buses to Kirkwall and Stromness.We took a bus to Kirkwall for the morning!) So far, we have had every anchorage to ourselves; and often we sail all day without seeing another boat. The Solent and SW England will seem sociable when we get back.

Anchored off Rousay

Lots of pretty flowers wherever we go

Trumland House

Anna feeling the cold (spot the hot water bottle!)

St Magnus Cathedral

Thursday was hot and sunny  - interruptions at Wimbledon, I think, but not here. We anchored for a night off the island of Hoy and walked to see Dwarfie Stane. This massive Neolithic lump of hollowed out sandstone is stunningly situated beneath awe-inspiring cliffs, and it’s staggering to imagine early man carving out the rock with simple stone tools. There are of course lots of tales of giants and trolls associated with it.

A peaceful Hoy anchorage

Seal serenade at dusk

Weather changes fast. Friday dawned super wet with cold low-flying cloud. So we’ve moved to Stromness marina for life’s pleasant non-essentials like shower, washing machine and co-op. There’s the ferry back to mainland Scotland for Anna to head home too.

For me, original plans for heading back via Caledonian Canal are cancelled. I’ll go southwest to Cape Wrath instead. There’s much more to see on Scotland’s northwest coast and in the Hebrides; and I can see the Caledonian Canal in a car one day when I’m older and wiser.