Arisaig to Rum

27th to 31st May
Arisaig-Mallaig-Loch Hourn-Inverie-Rum
(route http://www.a-trip.com/tracks/view/133219 )

Silver lining over Mallaig fishing boats

Loch Hourn Beag

Mallaig has a train station and fuel and Co-op and is at the centre of an especially beautiful sailing area, so it’s a useful spot. [Sailors be aware though that the ‘marina’ has no facilities – not even toilet block - yet charges £2.40/m ( + extra for electric) so even though the harbour master was fantastic and very helpful, I’d say, ‘Vote with your boat’!]

From Mallaig, I had a short sail to the fabulous Loch Hourn and after a peaceful night at anchor ventured through the four sets of narrows 10 miles to the inner loch, Loch Hourn Beag. It was a warm day despite snow still being on the nearby peaks, and a magical place. But, if you’ve a deep keel, it’s probably best to heed the pilot’s advice for the final narrows and “survey by dinghy before attempting a passage”. As it was, there were still a few inches under ‘Misty’s’ keel.(None of the supposed leading marks were clear: no shed, or tree, or bed of iris that seemed relevant!)

Next, on to Inverie, largely because so many people have referred to the pub there, and the angelic staff have T-shirts that proclaim it’s “the remotest pub on mainland Britain”. Well, it wasn’t Wetherspoons, but seemed pretty busy and tables were fully booked, so I just enjoyed a beer.

The Old Forge, Inverie

New beer from Old Forge

Now we’re back to the island of Rum. Last week, when in Rum, it was too windy to go ashore. Better luck this time, and I’ve had a memorable walk up Hallival – a lovely romantic Viking name, describing one of the peaks they used for navigation a thousand years ago. And later, I joined a tour of  Edwardian Kinloch Castle, which was built as the holiday home of a Lancastrian millionaire. It’s a bit decayed but is a fascinating place and home for many sad stag’s stuffed heads.

Windy walk up Hallival

Kinloch Castle

Spot the stag's heads

Another useful fact: Rum is the midge capital of Scotland. Also, it has special birds, which there isn’t time to write much about, but include the whitetailed sea eagle and nesting Manx shearwater,and red necked divers.